Starlink Disconnected? Here’s How to Fix It Fast (2026 Guide)

Is your Starlink showing “disconnected” and you’re staring at a dead internet connection? I’ve been there, standing in my kitchen at 11 PM, refreshing the app while my work deadline loomed, wondering if I’d need to climb on the roof in the dark.

The frustration is real, but here’s the good news: most Starlink disconnected errors aren’t as serious as they seem. In fact, about 70% of disconnection issues I’ve encountered can be fixed in under 10 minutes without ever calling customer support.

This guide walks you through exactly what to check, in the right order, so you’re not wasting time on fixes that don’t apply to your specific problem. Whether you have the rectangular Gen 2 dish or the newer Gen 3 Standard, I’ll show you how to diagnose what “disconnected” actually means for your system, and get you back online fast.

Key Takeaways

• “Disconnected” has two meanings: Your phone can’t reach the router (app issue) OR your dish can’t reach satellites (hardware problem)
• VPNs are the #1 app culprit: Disable VPN and iCloud Private Relay before troubleshooting
• Cable connections fail more than dishes: The proprietary connectors on Gen 2 systems are notorious for loosening over time
• A simple reboot won’t fix everything: Learn the 6-plug power cycle technique that forces a true factory reset
• Know when to contact support: Save time by submitting the right diagnostic data upfront

What Does “Starlink Disconnected” Actually Mean?

Here’s what trips up most people: when you open the Starlink app and see “disconnected,” it doesn’t automatically mean your satellite dish has failed. The error message is actually telling you about a broken link somewhere in the chain, but which link?

Your Starlink system has three critical connections:

1. Your phone ↔ Starlink router (via WiFi or local network)
2. Starlink router ↔ Satellite dish (via cable)
3. Satellite dish ↔ Starlink satellites (via space)

When any one of these breaks, you might see a disconnected error. The trick is figuring out which connection failed, because the fix for each is completely different.

The Two Faces of “Disconnected”

Understanding this distinction saves you hours of troubleshooting the wrong component.

Quick Diagnosis: App vs. System Disconnect

Before you start unplugging cables or climbing ladders, spend 60 seconds on this simple check:

The 60-Second Diagnostic Test

Step 1: Check what WiFi network your phone is connected to

• Open your phone’s WiFi settings
• Are you connected to “STARLINK” or your custom Starlink WiFi network name and password?
• Common mistake: Your phone switched to cellular data (5G/LTE) without you noticing

Step 2: Look at your Starlink router’s LED light

• Gen 2 router: Flip the router onto its back and check the bottom light
• Gen 3 router: Look at the front-facing LED
• What you’re looking for:
  • Solid white = router is working fine
  • Blinking white = router is booting up or searching
  • No light = check if the power cable is properly connected to a power outlet

Step 3: Can you connect to the internet on other devices?

• Try loading a website on a laptop or tablet connected to your Starlink WiFi
• If other devices work but the app says disconnected, it’s an app issue
• If nothing works, it’s a router and dish problem

This simple triage tells you exactly where to start troubleshooting.

Fixing “App Says Disconnected” (Phone-to-Router Issues)

If your internet is actually working fine on your laptop but the Starlink app shows disconnected, you’re dealing with a local network conflict. Here are the three most common culprits:

1. The VPN Blocker

The problem: Active VPNs on your phone prevent the app from discovering devices on your local network. The Starlink app needs direct access to talk to your router at its local IP address (usually 192.168.1.1).

The fix:

• Temporarily disable any VPN apps (NordVPN, ExpressVPN, etc.)
• On iPhone: Turn off iCloud Private Relay (Settings → Your Name → iCloud → Private Relay)
• Open the Starlink app again and wait 10-15 seconds for it to reconnect

I’ve seen this trick resolve probably 40% of “app says disconnected” complaints. The app simply can’t see through the VPN tunnel to find your router on the local network.

2. The MAC Address Randomization Issue

Modern phones randomize their MAC addresses for privacy, which sometimes confuses the router about which device is trying to connect.

For iPhone users:

• Go to Settings → WiFi
• Tap the (i) next to your Starlink network
• Turn OFF “Private WiFi Address”
• Reconnect to the network

For Android users:

• Long-press your Starlink WiFi connection
• Tap “Modify Network” → Advanced
• Change “Privacy” from “Random MAC” to “Device MAC”

3. The Bypass Mode Trap

This applies if you’re using a third-party router (Eero, Asus, Netgear) with the Starlink Ethernet adapter.

When you put Starlink in bypass mode (where your own router handles WiFi instead of the Starlink router), the app loses its ability to communicate with the system unless you set up a static route.

Quick fix:

• Manually navigate to 192.168.100.1 in a web browser on a device connected to your WiFi
• This accesses the Starlink router’s settings directly, bypassing the app
• Alternatively, temporarily reconnect the Starlink router to regain app access

Permanent solution: Configure a static route in your third-party router pointing to 192.168.100.1. (This is technical—check out the Starlink help center for detailed instructions for your specific router model.)

Solving Router-to-Dish Connection Problems

Now we’re getting into the hardware troubleshooting. If the app connects but shows your Starlink system as offline, the break is between your router and dish and 90% of the time, it’s the cable.

Gen 2 (Rectangular Dish): The Proprietary Connector Problem

The Gen 2 system uses custom-designed connectors that, frankly, weren’t built for the long haul. They work great when new, but after months of thermal expansion and contraction, they can develop a loose connection.

The Click Test:

1. At the router end: Unplug the cable from the router’s base, then firmly push it back in until you hear and feel a solid click
2. At the dish end: This requires accessing where the cable connects at the bottom of the mast, you’ll need to climb up to the dish installation
3. Push firmly until the connector seats completely (you should hear a distinct click)

The Paper Shim Hack (Community Fix):

If the router port feels loose even after reseating, here’s one trick that helps:

• Cut out a paper strip about 1mm thick and 5mm wide
• Insert it into the bottom of the router port alongside the cable connector
• This wedges the connector tighter against the pins

⚠️ Safety warning: This is a temporary fix. If your connector is loose enough to need shimming, contact support for a replacement cable—continuing to use a failing connector risks damaging the router port permanently.

Gen 3 (Standard/Mini): RJ45 Waterproof Connector Issues

The newer Gen 3 systems use modified RJ45 connectors with waterproofing, which are more reliable but have their own failure modes.

Check for:

• Bent pins: Shine a flashlight into the router’s RJ45 jack and look for any pins that aren’t straight
• Corrosion: Look for blue/green discoloration on the copper pins (indicates moisture got inside the waterproof seal)
• Damaged clip: The plastic retention clip breaks easily, if it’s missing, the cable can work its way loose

Pro tip: When reconnecting Gen 3 cables, push until you hear the clip engage, then give it a gentle tug. If it slides out, the clip isn’t catching properly.

The 6-Plug Power Cycle (Factory Reset Technique)

Sometimes the Starlink router’s firmware gets corrupted, causing intermittent disconnection that survives normal reboots. Here’s the nuclear option that actually works:

Why this matters: A standard reboot (using the app or power cycling once) doesn’t clear the router’s configuration memory. The 6-plug method forces a complete factory reset, clearing any corrupted settings.

How to do it:

1. Unplug the router’s power cable from the wall outlet
2. Wait 10 seconds
3. Plug it back in and wait for the light to turn white
4. Immediately unplug it again
5. Repeat this process 6 times total
6. On the 6th plug-in, leave it connected and let it boot completely (takes 3-5 minutes)

This resets the Starlink router to factory defaults, thus putting it back to its default settings. You’ll need to reconfigure your network name and password if you customized them, but it solves stubborn disconnected errors that nothing else touches.

When Your Dish Can’t Find Satellites

If your router and dish are talking to each other perfectly, but you’re still showing disconnected, the problem is between your dish and the Starlink satellites overhead.

Obstructions vs. True Disconnection

First, understand the difference:

• Obstructions cause brief interruptions (0.1 to 2 seconds) when a tree or building temporarily blocks the satellite signal
• True disconnection means your dish can’t see any satellites at all, usually for minutes at a time

Open the Starlink app (if it’s working) and check the obstruction viewer. Small branches or power lines cause “micro-drops” that show up as brief outages. That’s annoying but normal. If you’re seeing extended periods of zero connectivity, something else is wrong.

Hidden Cable Damage: The Silent Killer

I’ve diagnosed cable damage more times than I can count, and it’s almost never obvious at first glance. Here’s where to look:

Pinch points:

• Window sills where you ran the cable through
• Door frames (especially sliding doors that close on the cable repeatedly)
• Staples or cable clips that were tightened too aggressively
• The bottom of the mast where the cable bends sharply

Run your fingers along the entire cable length, feeling for:

• Flat spots where it’s been crushed
• Kinks or sharp bends
• Soft spots where the insulation has worn through
• Any exposed copper or inner wires

Animal damage: Rodents love the soy-based insulation Starlink uses in their cables. Look for:

• Small teeth marks or scratches on the outer jacket
• Sections where the cable looks slightly chewed or roughed up
• Fraying that doesn’t match normal wear patterns

If you find damage, you can splice the cable using shielded Cat6 couplers (standard electrical tape won’t work, you need proper shielded connections). But honestly, contact Starlink customer support for a replacement cable. Splicing introduces signal loss and potential failure points.

Thermal Issues: When Heat Causes Disconnects

Both the router and dish generate significant heat during operation. If they can’t dissipate that heat, they’ll throttle performance or shut down entirely.

Router overheating:

• Is your router in a cabinet or enclosed space?
• Move it to an open area with good airflow
• The router is located in hot spots like attics or sunrooms without ventilation

Dish overheating (rare but real):

• In extreme heat, the dish’s snow-melt function can malfunction and stay in “pre-heat” mode
• This drains massive power and overheats components
• Stow the dish using the app, wait 15 minutes, then unstow to reset the heating cycle

Advanced Troubleshooting Techniques

The Stow/Unstow Motor Reset

If your dish suddenly stopped working and you haven’t moved it, the motors might have lost their orientation or gotten stuck mid-adjustment.

How to reset:

1. Open the Starlink app
2. Go to Settings → Stow Starlink
3. Wait for the dish to fully fold down (motors will stop moving)
4. Wait 30 seconds
5. Tap “Unstow” and let the dish reposition itself

This forces the motors to re-calibrate and often fixes “Motor Stuck” errors or situations where the dish is pointing at the wrong part of the sky.

Checking the Debug Data (For Tech-Savvy Users)

If you’re comfortable with technical data:

1. Go to http://192.168.100.1/support/debug in your browser while connected to Starlink WiFi
2. Look for:
   • Cable ping drops: High numbers (>5%) indicate cable or connector problems
   • Motor faults: Any motor errors suggest mechanical issues with the dish
   • Thermal throttling: Temperature readings consistently above 65°C indicate overheating

This data is gold when contacting support, it tells them exactly what’s failing.

When to Contact Starlink Support

You’ve tried everything, and your Starlink went from working fine to permanently disconnected. Time to submit a support ticket but do it smart.

Don’t Just Say “It’s Broken”

Generic support requests get generic bot replies that waste days. Instead, use this template that gets you to a human faster:

Subject: Hard Disconnect – Debug Data Attached

Body: “Performed 6-cycle factory reset. Reseated both cable ends. Checked for cable damage (none visible). Router LED is [solid white/blinking/off]. Tried rebooting and factory reset the router. Debug data indicates [cable ping drop/motor fault/thermal issue]. System has been offline for [X hours/days]. Service address is [your address]. Unable to connect to the internet.”

How to Get in Touch with Starlink

1. Fastest method: Open the Starlink app → Tap the profile icon → Support → Submit a support ticket
2. If app won’t connect: Log in to your Starlink account at starlink.com → Support section
3. Include: Screenshots of error messages, photos of cable connections, and debug data if you accessed it

Response time reality check: Standard support tickets typically get responses in 24-48 hours. If you’re completely offline and need urgency, mention “business outage” or “service interruption affecting work” in your ticket.

What Hardware Gets Replaced

Starlink’s warranty covers:

• Cable failures: Free replacement if under warranty (usually 1 year)
• Router failures: Covered if the issue is hardware defect, not user damage
• Dish failures: Covered, but support will exhaust troubleshooting first

If your system is out of warranty, cable replacements run about $50-80, routers about $100, and a full dish replacement is $250-500 depending on your model.

FAQ: Starlink Disconnected Issues

Does rain cause “disconnected” status or just slow speeds?

Rain typically causes slowdowns or brief “searching” status, not full disconnection. Heavy rain might drop your speeds by 30-50%, and extremely heavy storms can cause searching periods of 10-30 seconds. But if you’re seeing a hard “disconnected” error message during rain, that points to a hardware issue (likely water in a cable connection) rather than weather interference.

Can I splice the cable if it’s cut or damaged?

Technically yes, but it’s tricky. You need shielded Cat6 or Cat5e couplers rated for outdoor use—standard electrical tape or wire nuts won’t maintain the signal integrity. I’ve seen successful splices using waterproof shielded RJ45 inline couplers, but each connection point introduces about 5-10% signal loss. For critical sections of cable, it’s worth ordering a replacement from customer support rather than risking degraded performance.

What does a buzzing sound from the router mean?

A faint, high-pitched buzzing (called coil whine) is actually normal—it’s the electrical components operating under load. However, if you hear crackling, popping, or irregular buzzing sounds, unplug the power cable immediately. That indicates a potential short circuit or failing power supply that could damage the router or become a fire hazard.

Why does my Starlink app show disconnected only on certain devices?

This is almost always a local network issue specific to that device. Check if the device has VPN software running, MAC address randomization enabled, or is on a guest WiFi network that restricts local device communication. The Starlink network treats devices differently based on their network configuration.

How long should I wait after a power cycle before assuming it didn’t work?

For a standard reboot or reset the router, wait 3-5 minutes for the system to fully boot and establish a satellite connection. The router light should turn solid white within 2 minutes, then the dish takes another 1-3 minutes to acquire satellites and come back online. If you’re still showing disconnected after 10 minutes, the power cycle didn’t solve the problem.

Is there a difference between “Offline” and “Disconnected” in the app?

Yes, subtle but important. “Offline” typically means the router is functioning but can’t communicate with the dish or satellites (an outage on the hardware side). “Disconnected” usually indicates the app can’t reach the router at all (a local network issue). However, Starlink uses these terms somewhat inconsistently across app versions.

Get Back Online and Stay There

Most Starlink disconnected errors come down to three fixable problems: app connectivity issues, loose cable connections, or temporary satellite acquisition problems. By working through this guide methodically, starting with the quick diagnosis, then moving through app fixes, hardware checks, and finally contacting Starlink support with detailed information, you’ll solve 90% of disconnection issues without needing a technician.

The key is understanding what type of disconnect you’re actually experiencing. Is it your phone that can’t see the router, your router that can’t see the dish, or your dish that can’t see the satellites? Once you know which link in the chain is broken, the fix becomes obvious.

If you’ve tried everything here and you’re still offline, don’t hesitate to use the Starlink app to reach out to customer support with all the diagnostic data you’ve gathered. You’ll skip the basic troubleshooting queue and get to someone who can actually help.

Have you dealt with a particularly stubborn Starlink disconnect? What finally fixed it? Your experience might help someone else stuck in the same situation.